I go surfing all the time. I go as much as I can, before school, after school, and on the weekends. If there's a swell, I'm in the water. Surfing has changed my life because before I surfed a lot I body boarded a lot. Surfing is a much better workout than body boarding and it's way more fun. Standing on a board and skimming across a wave is one of the greatest feelings that I can get. The bigger the wave, the faster you go, the faster you go the better. I find it fun to catch waves over really shallow coral because it adds to the experience and makes the wave have better form. When the reef is more shallow it makes the wave barrel better and stay up longer which makes for better rides. The only problem with shallow reef is that if you fall you get messed up. I like that because it gives you motivation to not fall down. Big waves are the best though. Dropping down the face of an 8 to 10 foot wave is the funnest thing about surfing to me. The good waves on the south shore start coming in usually around late March and I cant wait for the first swell.
Q: How do you feel about your commonplace book?
A: I don't know, it's okay, I have trouble writing in it, though.
Q: Why?
A: It's hard to think of something different to write every day.
Q: Do you feel that your book represents you and everything you enjoy doing?
A: Yes.
Q: Could you please elaborate on that?
A: I like to go surfing a lot so that's wha I mostly talk about in the book. I also like to play water polo so I talk about that a little bit.
Q: Do you have any pictures?
A: A couple.
Q: What are they?
A: I have a picture of a wave in Tahiti and I have a picture of a dog with no ears.
Q: Is the dog supposed to represent something given the fact that it has no ears?
A: No, not really.
Q: Then why does he have no ears?
A: I can't draw dog ears very well, and I didn't want to ruin the rest of the picture.
Q: That makes sense. Do you have any other pictures?
A: Yup, it's a picture I used to draw when I was really little.
Q: Why'd you draw it?
A: Because I couldn't think of anything to write.
Q: How do you feel about your commonplace book?
A: I don't know, it's okay, I have trouble writing in it, though.
Q: Why?
A: It's hard to think of something different to write every day.
Q: Do you feel that your book represents you and everything you enjoy doing?
A: Yes.
Q: Could you please elaborate on that?
A: I like to go surfing a lot so that's wha I mostly talk about in the book. I also like to play water polo so I talk about that a little bit.
Q: Do you have any pictures?
A: A couple.
Q: What are they?
A: I have a picture of a wave in Tahiti and I have a picture of a dog with no ears.
Q: Is the dog supposed to represent something given the fact that it has no ears?
A: No, not really.
Q: Then why does he have no ears?
A: I can't draw dog ears very well, and I didn't want to ruin the rest of the picture.
Q: That makes sense. Do you have any other pictures?
A: Yup, it's a picture I used to draw when I was really little.
Q: Why'd you draw it?
A: Because I couldn't think of anything to write.